PRINTING THE CARRÉ ALCHIMIQUE No1
Our crêpe de Chine scarf is printed using “Impression à la Lyonnaise” an artisanal technique at the print lab of Maison Marc Rozier: a set of little industrial buildings sitting in the countryside in front of the majestic Alps some sixty kilometres East of Lyon, at La Côte St André.
The original drawing of “Configuration des Etoiles En Characteres Celestes” is a map found in the treatrise on Astrology and Jewish Kabbahla written by Jacques Gaffarel, scholar and librairian of Cardinal Richelieu. “Curiosités Inouyes sur la Sculpture Talysmanique des Persans: Horoscopes des Patriarches et Lecture des Estoilles”. Middle Temple Library in London us granted permission to use their copy.
Table printing "Impression à la lyonnaise”
"Impression à la lyonnaise" was discovered in the 1920’s and revolutionised printing on silk which started during the XIXth century with Wood pannel printing and developped with Roller printing.
This technique consists of using a series of flat screens prepared to reveal the element of the design that must be printed in a particular colour as a negative space onto which a colour paste is pushed with a squeegee, thus leaving an imprint on the pre-dyed fabric stuck on a long table.
There is one screen for each of the colours creating a design.
The screens were first made of a fine silk gauze mesh tightly stretched onto a frame, they are replaced now by a stronger Polyester gauze.
Lacquer was applied in order to block out the colour where it was not wanted, firstly by hand, and now by photosensitivity.
This is a slow process of "wet on dry" printing, meaning that when a colour is printed the previous one is already dry. Consequently it is possible to produce very complicated patterns with a great precision.